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Joel Robuchon is famous for his mashed potatoes which have almost as much (if not more) cream and butter as potatoes. Perhaps there was a time when I would have enjoyed these, but now-a-days all that excess fat makes me a little queasy.
Yukon Gold potatoes have a wonderful sweet creaminess to them that makes them ideal for a healthier version of mashed potatoes. And to get them really smooth, I use a potato ricer. It looks like an extra-large garlic press.
Some home cooks have been known to whip their potatoes to make them airy, smooth and light. But all the mixing actually activates the glutens creating an end-product that simulates wall-paper paste. But, after passing the potatoes through the rice, they only need a few quick stirs with hot cream or milk and a generous seasoning of salt. No fear of making gluey potatoes.
These potatoes make a perfect side to steak with sauteed spinach. A classic steak-house dinner.
Potato Puree
4 Yukon Gold potatoes
1 cup cream
salt
1. Peel potatoes and cut into chunks. Place them in a large pot, and cover with cold water. Season generously with salt.
2. Bring the potatoes to a boil, and cook until they are tender. Depending on the size of the potato chunks, this could be 5 – 20 minutes.
3. Drain potatoes well. While they are still hot, put mash them through the potato ricer.
4. Stir in cream. Season to taste with more salt.
I was browsing the spice aisle at a local gourmet shop and noticed all the different varieties of salt – sea salt, pink salt, black salt, smoked salt. Even Himalayan salt that’s purported to be thousands of years old. And they had Maldon Smoked Sea Salt. Salt? Smoke? Could anything be better?
I discovered Maldon Sea Salt when I was working at Biba restaurant. The salt hails from Essex England, but can be found in stores throughout the US. I’ve always loved the pyramid shaped crystals, with its wonderful texture, and clean, almost sweet, mineral flavor. The makers claim its unique flavor comes from the relatively low rainfall and environmental conditions of the local estuaries. The sea water is collected during high tide and then evaporated in clay pots leaving the crystals behind. I could practically snack on it like popcorn. And, in fact, as the kitchen manager at Biba would walk by my station, he’d take a pinch of salt and pop it in his mouth.
The crystals are immediately recognizable when served. At Mario Batali’s restaurant Babbo, if you ask for salt, they will bring a small dish of Maldon’s.
As much as I love this salt, it’s not the best choice for cooking. First, it’s expensive, $15/pound as opposed to $2/pound for Diamond Kosher Salt. And even if I had unlimited funds, I still wouldn’t cook with it. What makes the texture so special and wonderful also prevents it from dissolving easily.
Unlike most other spices, salt reacts chemically with food, and is absorbed in a way that is critical for seasoning. For example, when grilling steak, you want to season it with salt before you cook it. Before the proteins have coagulated in the cooking process, they can absorb the salt and the meat will be seasoned through. If the steak is salted after, it will just taste salty as opposed to well-seasoned. Grain for grain, the steak will taste better if seasoned with salt before cooking, rather than after.
Because Maldon’s crystals are so large, they do not dissolve easily, and as such is better used as a finishing ingredient – a little sprinkle on top of steak or fish before serving. Not only will it bring extra flavor to your dishes, you will have extra texture from the crunchy flakes.
Seared Steak with Red Wine Reduction
2 rib eye steaks
1 tbs. plain oil
1 small shallot, peeled and diced fine
1 cup red wine
1 cup veal or chicken stock
3 tbs. butter
salt, pepper and lemon juice
Maldon Sea Salt
1. Season steak generously with salt and pepper. Let sit for 5 minutes to give the steak a chance to dissolve and absorb the salt.
2. Heat a large skillet over high heat. Sear steak on both sides.
3. Continue roasting in 375F oven for 5 minutes, or until desired doneness.
4. Let meat rest.
5. To the pan the steak was cooking in, pour off any excess fat. Add the shallots and deglaze the pan with the red wine. When the red wine has reduced by 3/4 (so that 1/4 cup is left) add the stock. Let reduce again by 3/4. Remove pan from heat, and let bubbling subside. Swirl in butter. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
6. Serve steak with potatoes, spinach and sauce. Sprinkle sea salt on top.
My friend Steve Dunn started a new blog, Oui, Chef about 6 months ago – about teaching his kids to cook. I have enjoyed his blog for many reasons, but I think top on my list is his photography. His photos are clean, crisp and always make the food look mouthwatering. After receiving an “Honest Scrap” award, he admitted that his plating skills are lacking, so he uses a macro setting on his camera to compensate, or hide, for his perceived deficiency.
I have the opposite problem. I’m actually pretty good at plating. I just can’t take a good photograph. The photos always look a bit out of focus – I’m sure my number one problem is lighting. Number two: I need to learn more about the settings on the camera, so I can use them to my advantage.
Case in point: This picture.
I had wanted to share with you a great technique for creating a beautiful presentation for salads.
With a vegetable peeler, shave long slices of English cucumbers. Be sure to get the entire width of the cucumber so there is peel on both sides. From a single cucumber, you should be able to get a dozen or more slices – so you have plenty to practice with enough leftover to still serve to your guests.
Line the inside of a ring mold with the cucumber. Make sure the ends overlaps by at least one inch. The cucumber has enough moisture that it will hold its shape when unmolded. With the cucumber still in the ring, fill the inside of the cucumber ring with dressed mesclun greens. Be sure to tuck any ends into the cucumber, letting only the leafy greens poke out. You can fill it pretty tight. To remove the ring, gently hold the cucumber in place and pull the ring off.
This salad was served with seared foie gras and paired with a 1986 Chateau Climens Sauternes.
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Thank you, Steve, for the Honest Scrap award. I’m honored to receive it and flattered to know that you’ve been inspired by my blog. The feeling is mutual: I think your design and photos are clean and beautiful. And I’m always interested in hearing about the stories of you and your kids in the kitchen. They are so fortunate to have you as their dad.
I, too, have been inspired by many blogs, and would like to recognize just a few here. T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types for being a wonderful story-teller. Dan at Casual Kitchen for culling out such interesting stories and resources about the way we eat. Lydia at the Perfect Pantry for being a wonderful friend and mentor. And I always learn interesting tidbits form her posts. Melissa at Alosha's Kitchen -- your style of cooking is just a few degrees off what I cook for myself, and you always inspire me to try new dishes.
